San Antonio Travel Guide

Justin had a break from work the week of Independence Day, so we decided to properly introduce our son to San Antonio. He'd only been once, and it was a quick trip for a funeral. 

Because Justin and I are both native Texans, we feel a special sort of obligation to indoctrinate our kid in all things Texas — as is tradition. That is why this travel guide will have a lot of the more touristy, kid-friendly things on it, but I will also include a few things from past trips in case you've been there and done that. 

The Alamo

Where to stay:

Emily Morgan - It's hard to beat the location; this building casts a shadow on the Alamo. But it's also a beautiful historic hotel with lovely, spacious rooms. Plus, since it’s a DoubleTree property, you get a free warm chocolate chip cookie at check-in.

Hotel Emma - I have not stayed here yet, but I'm dying to. It's truly stunning. Just walking through the lobby took my breath away. It's located in the Pearl district right on the river and surrounded by amazing restaurants. 

Menger - Although I haven't stayed here, I feel like no San Antonio list is complete without mentioning this legendary hotel. It's been hanging out next to the Alamo for over 160 years. Not only is it opulent and majestic, it is steeped in history. Countless historic figures such as presidents, celebrities, and famous athletes have stayed there. If you go to the bar on the ground floor, you will be standing where Teddy Roosevelt gathered his Rough Riders. If you want your San Antonio trip to be about the history, you should at least walk through the hotel.

Omni La Mansion Del Rio - I've stayed here many times over the years, and it's always been a beautiful place. I have many fond childhood memories here. The lovely courtyard was where I first saw snow. It's located right on the River Walk (hence the name), and it's also extremely close to the Majestic Theater and just down the street from the Alamo. As with many things in downtown San Antonio, it has a colorful history dating back to the 1850s. It was recently updated in 2020.

Market Square

What to do:

San Antonio Zoo - There is a lot to see here. The zoo itself is lovely and the grounds are beautiful. It's a bit pricey, but you could easily spend a whole day trying to see everything. There's also an old school amusement park that you walk through to get to the entrance. It's called Kiddie Park and it's the oldest children's amusement park in the country established in 1925.  Adults can ride free with their child on the Carousel and Flying Saucers. 

Zoo Train - Honestly, this was one of our son's favorite things. He's a big fan of trains in general, and this little train will take you from the zoo to several stops of other parks and museums along the way. One $6 ticket allows you to ride all day. We definitely took advantage of that and caught the train to the children's museum and back. 

DoSeum - If you've got an active kid, chances are this will be their jam. Everything is interactive. They can touch everything. They can do everything. There are things to do inside and there are things to do outside. We were there for almost three hours and he still didn't want to leave. Some kids may find it overstimulating, but they do have Calm Room and certain programs that allow for a more sensory-friendly experience.

Witte Museum - We didn't visit this time because we knew our son wasn't quite ready for this one. However, it is a stop on the zoo train route, and it's a great fit for older kids and adults. Now until September, they have two special dinosaur exhibits.

Alamo - We knew our son would probably be "meh" on this one, but we took him any way. It's a Texas childhood rite of passage, after all. He did, however, enjoy the 17-minute Crossroads of History film about the history of the Alamo —much to our surprise. You have many options for the kind of experience you want. You can have a private tour, an after-hours private tour, a bus tour, a self-guided tour, a guided tour, or an audio tour. Sometimes they have historic demonstrations and re-enactments as well. If you're interested in artifacts, the Alamo Exhibit in the 24,000-square-foot Ralston Family Collections Center recently opened behind the Alamo Church. 

River Walk - I mean, what's a trip to San Antonio without the River Walk? And if you've never seen it before, it really is kind of magical — especially at night with all the lights reflecting on the water. Our son begged us for a river boat tour, which is something everyone should do at least once, but keep in mind the wait can get long. You can also take a river shuttle as a scenic way to get through downtown. But don't try it if you're in a hurry. It's especially beautiful at Christmastime.

LEGOLAND Discovery Center - From the moment my son learned this place existed, it was at the top of his list. And as far as he was concerned, it did not disappoint. He loved building his own creations and racing them on the racetrack against other kids. They also have a Master Builder Creative Workshop, indoor playgrounds, a LEGO replica of downtown San Antonio, a several rides, and a LEGO 4D Cinema. If your kid likes LEGOs, this is likely a winner. 

Andretti Indoor Karting & Games - We'd considered whether to take our son to SeaWorld or Fiesta Texas on this trip and opted to wait another year. But when Justin found this instead, we knew it would be perfect for our little racing fanatic. He hasn't stopped talking about it since. They have an indoor racetrack with electric go-karts. Kids ages 4-7 can race on their own track in their own Mini Mario kart so they don’t get run over by the older kids — or the adults. They also have laser tag, Hologate VR, and an arcade with lots of multiplayer games that allowed our whole family to play together. I'd love to go back and check out the bowling alley; each lane has its own racing theme.

Historic Pearl District - Justin and I first visited this area on our first wedding anniversary a few years ago. Back then, it was still sort of in the early phases of development. Not anymore. It's full of high-end shops, restaurants, and bars. The even have a farmers’ market on the weekends. There’s also a green space and a splash pad that was popular with the kids and a Food Hall and plenty of seating around the area that was popular with the parents.

Historic Market Square - I've always enjoyed Market Square. It's the largest Mexican marketplace in the United States. Walking through some parts feel like you've crossed into a border town. There’s live entertainment nearly every weekend and a wide variety of locally-owned shops and booths to explore. The best Mexican hot chocolate I've ever had came from here.

River Walk near Pearl

Where to eat:

Mi Tierra - This San Antonio institution is located on Market Square and has been around for over 80 years. It's a massive restaurant and bakery that's open 24 hours, but there's almost always a wait no matter what time you go — at least that's been my experience. It's known for its festive ambience, live mariachi entertainment, and extensive menu. It always feels like a never-ending party.

The Esquire Tavern - Justin and I discovered this gem on an anniversary trip here. The craft cocktails are inventive and delicious, and the heartiness of the food offsets the booziness of the cocktails very well. 

Domingo - We met up with some friends at this spot on the River Walk. It's located beneath the Canopy boutique hotel, and I did have reservations about attempting such a trendy, upscale place with three children in tow. But the service was excellent and so was the food. We all rolled out of there fat and happy. And, of course, my kid loved watching the boats drift by. 

Dough Pizzeria Napoletana - After a long, hot day of sightseeing, we decided to order in one night. We wanted pizza, but we try to stay away from gluten when possible, so we decided to order from Dough based on a recommendation from our favorite gluten-free Italian. It was delicious. Most gluten-free crust tastes like a cracker; this was pillowy and soft and delicious. We devoured it in no time. They have normal pizza too, and judging by the line waiting to get in, it must be pretty great. 

La Fogata - This San Antonio staple has been around for 40 years and is full of ambience and charm. I introduced my guys to this place for lunch at the original sprawling location on Vance Jackson. As always, the food was delicious and the margaritas were as beautiful as they were yummy. And the fountains provided plenty of entertainment for my kid who doesn't care about food.

Cured - This beautiful little spot in the middle of the Pearl district had recently opened when Justin and I visited several years ago. He loves meat and I love cheese, and they take both very seriously so it was perfect for us. Now they've been nominated for a bunch of awards and we'd love to go back sans kid.

Biga on the Banks - If you're celebrating a special occasion or just enjoy New American fine dining, this place knows what it's doing. The service is impeccable and the food is exquisite. Great spot for a date night, but not a great spot for kids.